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I continue with my travelogue to Turkey in 2006…
The next morning, if I remember correctly (in November 2006), we woke up before 5am so that we could take the hot air balloon ride. My son got a free seat as he was only 6 year old. (Anything above 6 are chargeble)
If I remember correctly, I was the only non-Muslim of the tour group that followed the night trip to this Caravanserai to watch the the ritual or ceremony of Mevlana’s whirling dervishes. There were probably about 15 of us, mostly Muslim, went to this Caravanserai. My wife and son and probably 20 others in the tour group decided to stay in the hotel and to prepare to wake up early for tomorrow hot air balloon experience.
It was the early or mid November of 2006, early winter. I wrote in my earlier incomplete travelogue post, highlights of my Turkiye trip:
In a chilling winter night, at this remote 800 year-old caravanserai near Avanos, we watched the ritual or ceremoney of Mevlana’s whirling dervishes. (Mevlana’s teaching) This photo of the caravanserai was taken at about 10pm-11pm, after the ceremony. It was a cold and serene night of early winter. I watched with deep respect to the ritual.
After more than two years, I was unable to complete my travelogue and my memory of this cherished trip is slowly faded away. I love this land, Turkiye or as they called, Anatolia, very much. I just unwilling to forget or accept a blurred faded memory of this beautiful land and beautiful culture and people.
I searched the net to find the name of this Caravanserai, Sari Han Caranserai.
Looking at the architecture. I am very sure SariHan is the Caravanserai that I visited.
Caravanserai served as lodging place for the travellers at yore. Sarihan Caravanserai was part of the Silk Road. The Ottoman Sultans collected tax from the traders when they entered the country. In exchange, the Sultans provided free lodging to these traders. In today words, these are international trade.
It was an extremely quiet night at Avanos. Once the bus engine stopped, all you could hear was quietness. People talked softly. The dervishes songs/ chants were clear and distinct from the background quietness.
This was the hall where the dervishes performed their whirling ritual. It began with plain single vocal. We could hear the echo and it was mesmerizing. Then, the musical instruments joined in. There were some woodwinds, strings (something like a ancient version of guitar) & drums. Very simple background music, though not simple melody.
Then the Whirling Dervishes started to whirl, probably entered into a kind of trance.
The performers were, as I was told, the direct descendants & disciples of Mevlana. There was at least a university professor in the 4-5 whirling dervishes. There were, if I remember correctly, 5-7 musicians playing the ancient musical instruments.
From the little I know, I think Mevlana’s whirling dervishes are not part of Islamic’s sect. The performers are probably Muslims but carry on with the Mevlana’s culture. In today perspectives Mevlana’s Whirling Dervishes movement are peace activists. Mevlana, when he was alive, promoted peace among religions and ethnics. He believed music and dances are the keys to enable people to forget about differences and to live in peace with each other.
In Turkiye, Ataturk banned all religions sects. I supposed it is still illegal to have religion’s rituals until recently. We were not allowed to take photo of the Whirling Dervishes.
More about this Sari Han Caravanserai.
Before the bus left for Hotel, I rushed to the left side of the Caravanserai to take this photo. The night was cold, very cold.
This is the map and the location of Sari Han Caravanserai.
Technorati Tags:
caravanserai, serihan, avanos, Mevlana, whirling dervishes, Ottoman, Turkey, Turkiye
Crossing Dardanelles Straight early morning. Leaving Asia to Europe.
Hour long Bosphorus cruise. Beautiful scenery.
Hagia Sophia. Do you realise the co-existence of Mother and Child with Koran’s writing? I think it is the symbol of religion tolerance. It makes Hagia Sofia, Istanbul and Turkey great.
Evening outside Grand Bazaar.
Topkapi Palace. Does it look like Disney Land’s castle?
Inside Topkapi Palace
Tag: Hagia Sofia, Dardanelles Straight, Bosphorus cruise, Grand Bazaar, Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, Turbo Tagger
In a chilling winter night, at this remote 800 year-old caravanserai near Avanos, we watched the ritual or ceremoney of Mevlana’s whirling dervishes. (Mevlana’s teaching) This photo of the caravanserai was taken at about 10pm-11pm, after the ceremony. It was a cold and serene night of early winter. I watched with deep respect to the ritual.
Watching sun rise in a hot air balloon at Kapadokya (Cappadocia) in a shivery winter’s dawn. There were few other hot air balloons in the sky. This photo was taken in the hot air balloon while floating in the sky. Ryan, our six year old son, was with us in the hot air balloon.
Looking down to this beautiful landscape of Kapadokya from the hot air balloon.
Early winter or late autumn of The Virgin Mary Church at Ephesus. It was a beautiful season at this holy, quiet and picturesque place. Yellow leaves fell from the trees when the breeze passed by.
One of my most unforgettable experience of the trip is at Canakkale, a sea side city and a university city (language centre) of Turkey. We strolled at the esplanade beside the harbour, stopped and had coffee at cafe, talked to the locals and university students, etc. We met a Turkey old gentlement (who I think is Santa Clause). Canakkale is situated right beside Troy or Truva. The wooden horse you see in this photo is the wooden horse appeared in Brad Pitt’s movie, Troy.
Another photo blog to Turkey
Tags: mavlana caravanserai whirling dervishes Kapadokya Cappadocia Turkiye Turkey hot air balloon Canakkale Troy Truva Virgin Mary Church Ephesus esplanade Avanos Turbo Tagger
World Cup 2002 was the first time I had impression about the Turks. They looked fierce, rough, tough and competitive, like warriors. Do you still remember their goal keeper, Rustu Recber? He was one of the world best goalkeeper. Feared by many strikers for his natural shot stop skills, height and face’s war paint. I got his picture from another web site. I remember there was another midfielder who looked like Mohegan warrior.
Before going to Turkey, I warned my 6 year old son to always stay close to us and not to be kidnapped by beard man. I have to admit that I was affraid of Turks before I came to Turkey. I suspect this is due to some genetical reasons. Chinese, or my ancestor in China used to fear Turks and their ancestors for thousands of years. We built Great Wall to keep them away, you see.
Turks, were originally from the North and North West (XinJiang) of China. According to my history book, A Summary of Chinese History by Bo Yang, the name of Turks, or Tu Jue Ren, first appear at AD550 right before a short-lived Duo Dynasty and, one of the three golden ages of China, the Tang Dynasty. In both Dynasties, Tu Jue nation was strong enough to have the Chinese Kings to send princesses to marry Tu Jue Ke Han, the king of Tu Jue nation, in exchange for peace. Tu Jue was big and strong. They occupied the entire place where XingJiang and Mongolia are today.
Tu Jue’s ancestor is XiongNu, a bigger problem for the then Qin Dynasty (BC 220) and Han Dynasty (BC 206). Ah, yes, the Chinese Kings had to send their beautiful princesses and women to XiongNu’s kings for peace. In fact the Qin Dynasty was so fedup of the XiongNu that the Emperor started to connect all the walls built by individual nations (which were crushed by Qin nation and later united under Qin Dynasty). This connected walls are now the Great Wall of China. The first task of all Chinese Kings, when they became Kings, were to either reinforce the Wall or to send princesses to XiongNu or XiongNu’s decendents that include Tu Jue and Mongols.
It was in AD630 and AD657, in two major battles the Tang Chinese crushed the Tu Jue’s army. The remainders of Turks moved to Mesopotamia. It was in Mesopotamia that the Turks mixed around with the Arabs and finally converted to become Muslim. That was the beginning of the nightmere of the Western’s Christians.
Before Turks, the Arabs had never posted a real treat to Byzantine Empire, or the Eastern Roman Empire. In mid-11th century, the Muslim Turks setup an empire called Saljuk in today Iran and later, Turkey. In a battle, the Turks captured the Roman Emperor (ha ha ha!) but released him in exchange for a big piece of eastern Anatolia land.
After some fights with the crusaders and later Mongolians invasion, the Turks had another empire call Ottoman Empire, one of the strongest empire in human history that once controlled three continents, i.e. Europe including Austria, Asia and North Africa. Turks setup the Ottoman Empire by smashing and eating up the more prosperous half of Roman Empire (like eating mashed potato). After few hundreds years losing all its land to the Turks, Constantinople, the capital of once invincible Roman Empire (eastern), was finally conquered by the Turks to complete the most humiliating episode of Europe whiteman’s history. The humiliation was so great that all whiteman historians started to disown this part of history by disowning Eastern Roman Empire. All English history books that I read do not write about Eastern Roman Empire, they rename this, once a more prosperous and more civilised, half of the Roman Empire as Byzantine. In some English history books, the Europe or US whiteman writers just refuse to call Byzantine as Eastern Roman Empire. It created confusion for a foreign learner like me who has no background on learning European history. Finally I figured out that Byzantine really IS the eastern and more powerful part of Roman Empire. They were no change of government, they were no bloodshed, etc. the whiteman historians just changed the Eastern Roman Empire’s name to Byzantine so as to protect their pride as the extended culture of this “mighty and invincible” (ha ha) Roman Empire.
Turks were good horseman, soldiers and warriors. They later defeated the Sea Lord Winston Churchill’s navy at Dardanelles Strait during World War I.
So I know the history, what do you think my imagination of Turks before meeting the real modern Turks face to face?…I had a great surprise.
They, the Turks, are generally warm, friendly, polite, tolerant, open minded and are extremely fond of children. Most of them seems cannot resist on touching Ryan’s, my six-year-old son, head. The Istanbul’s Turks, seems to me, always in a rush just like most cities people…less care of your business. But people outside Istanbul, except those of souvenir sellers, are genuinely friendly and curious of us, the tourists. There were wonderful experience talking to them. Since my Turkish is limited to “hello” & “thank you”, and most Turks do not speak English, we usually have to use our facial expression, hands and fingers to communicate. And it is surprisingly easy to understand each other.
(On souvenir sellers, like every place of the world, tourists must always be careful when dealing with souvenir sellers. There is no exception in Turkey. 
)
Behind every photo above, there is a story. But for those stories, we will have to wait for my future posts. Next, I will show you the highlights of our tour to Turkey or Turkiye, the land of Turks.
Day 1, 17 Nov 2006:
The flight departure time was 9.00am. We met our Malaysian tour guide Miss Yong PS from Summit Holidays at KLIA, 7.00 am. (We signed up the tour through Orange World Holidays.) After an 11 hours flight, we reached Istanbul at local time 2.00pm. The time difference between Malaysia and Turkey is 6 hours.
Once touched down and out from emigration we got our currency exchange done. Yeni Turkish Lira (YTL, or new Turkish Lira) is not available in Malaysia. Before the trip we exchanged RM for USD and Euro (just in case). Most Turkey places accept all three currencies, i.e. YTL, USD and Euro. YTL is the default currency in Turkey (of course) and, in hindsight with USD and YTL available, we don’t need Euro.
By the way, we did NOT wait for long to get our luggage at Istanbul. It was much faster than the experience 9 days later at KLIA.
There were 31 of us from Malaysia including our Malaysian tour guide Ms Yong. We have a good mix of Chinese and Malays. The youngest is 4 and the oldest is 66. My son was happy to find out there was another Malay family with 3 children of 4, 7 and 10 year old. It was when he started to abandon us and slowly blended into that family as if his own.
The local tour operator was Dorak Tours. Our local tour guide Mr Sinan Sinangil was waiting for us at the arrival hall. We were introduced to another Mr Sinan, the coach driver, and his assitant Mr Hakan. That was when I had my first few surprises. For one, how do you think Turks should look like?
The Photo: Looking down to Red Sea from the sky. Look at the tip of the MAS’s plane wings.
When I told people our holiday destination, the first reaction from most of them were “why Turkey?”
This reminds me of my own reaction when I heard my cousin visiting Turkey and when I heard my friend brought his family to Turkey (watching 2005 Championship Liverpool vs AC Milan live)…”Why Turkey?”
Initially Yvonne wanted to go New Zealand. After contemplating at the idea for a while I just wish to have something more than watching water, mountain and sheeps. I wanted to go China, a place full of historical happenings. But Yvonne prefered a place where the toilets are clean, less crowded and…with an English speaking tour guide. However this didn’t lead us to Turkey.
We went to Matta fair. Most holiday packages, within the range of RM4K – RM3K, would take around 5 days to 7 days. We saw Turkey…9 days covering full three meals for the entire journey. That’s it.
So why Turkey? Because it is exotic AND the cost is relatively cheaper than those of Europe, Australia, New Zealand and US. We did not consider the food, drinks, safety, even toilets…then yet, and we forgot we have a 6 year old son who will follow us to this “strange” and “dangerous” foreign land called Turkey.
This was the best “mistake” we made.
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The photo: Asia side of Bosporus Strait.
So I decided to write a travelogue on my trip to Turkey. I wish to imagine that I am a twenty something pilgrim who backpack through the land of Anatolia, search for true self and wander through historical places seeking enlightenment. Or may be I am a National Geographic photographer shooting for a featured issue on Turkey. Yeah, I wish I am.
But I am not. I am in my mid-thirties, a manager, accompanying my wife, dragging my luggages, chasing my six year old son and joining a 9 days guided tour to Turkey. The type of man like those, when you see a group of Japanese tourists stepping down the bus coach, with camera hanging on the neck. And you would roll you eyes and think “…these tourists…”.
Yeap, this image doesn’t deviate too much despite the fact that I am a Malaysian. But I promise, this travelogue will be full of beautiful pictures that I snapped with my Canon 350D (XT Rebel) and some amazing stories.
There are much to share, not because I experienced a lot, but because Turkey is simply full of wonders. For a start, let me tell you, I like Turkiye, the land of Turk. It was one of my most wonderful experience.
The photo: Crossing Bosporus Strait at dusk from Europe (right) to Asia (left) on the day we touched down at Istanbul. I took the photo in the coach.